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 THEY say that first impressions count and, as my flight came into land at Faro, the sight of the Ria Formosa Natural Park with its lush green islands and lagoons filled me with excitement about what lay ahead during my trip to the Algarve.

My base for the next few days was the grand and sedate five-star Vila Vita Parc Resort, where you can relax in one of its pools or down at the private beach, keep active at the gym and golf course or just relax at the Vila Vita spa, before dining in style in one of several restaurants. Vila Vita even has its own private yacht if you really want to splash the cash.

My first port of call was to the ancient town of Lagos (pronounced Lagosh) in the west of the Algarve. Although it is popular with tourists in search of some of the finest beaches in the region, the town is packed full of history. It was the capital of the Algarve until 1756, when the region was separate from the rest of Portugal, and it has been an important base for the Romans, Moors and the Portuguese.

In fact, Lagos was an important port during Portuguese exploration in the 15th century, with links to the explorer, Vasco da Gama, and Henry the Navigator.

Back to the present day and, despite being a history geek, my attention was focused on getting my first taste of Algarvian cuisine as we walked through the old town (passing the St John the Baptist Church – the oldest in Algarve) to the Don Sebastio restaurant, where I can honestly say I tasted some of the best fish I have ever eaten.

Unsurprisingly, it has an excellent reputation, but the big attraction is the underground wine cellar with wines from all over the world, vintage ports and Madeira wines, with historic 150-year-old bottles from the owner’s private collection thrown in for good measure.

With my attention drawn to the wines and, of course, the ports, which everyone knows Portugal is famous for, we headed for the Barranco Longo winery in Algoz, where Rui Virginia gave us a short tour of his fledgling wine-making business. He tells us that the Algarve doesn’t have a good reputation for wine, but he intends to change that. I know little about the wine-making trade, but he seems to be making it a success and proudly shows us that he has made it into the Lonely Planet and the Wine Report for 2008.

Back at the hotel, that night, we dined at Vila Vita’s Arte Nautica Restaurant & Beach Club, where I enjoyed a delicious seafood stew cooked using a cataplana, which is a copper dish frequently used in Portugal, especially in the Algarve. Feeling very well-fed and watered, a few of us decided to run along the beach and dip our feet in the ocean. Just what I needed, to be honest.

Next day, we headed to the east of the region to the striking, pretty, but remote border town of Alcoutim, which is perched above the Guadiana river, which separates Portugal from Spain.

As I enjoyed a cold drink in Alcoutim Castle overlooking Spain, the rivalry between the two countries is apparent when my guide reliably informs me that the food is better on the Portuguese side and that the Spanish often come across the river to dine in the evenings.

There was no danger of us going hungry in the Algarve and, soon enough, we were taken down the river by speedboat to the Guerreiros do Rio Hotel, where I ate eel for the first time. It might not sound appetising to some, but trust me, it was good.

Although they are into fish in a big way, Algarvian desserts are also not to be missed, and I tried some almond and chocolate cakes shaped to look like figs. Figs and almonds feature heavily in Algarvian desserts.

I was able to walk off lunch at Tavira. It’s an impressive town full of white-washed houses and a Moorish bridge which links the two halves of the town separated by the River Gilao. For great views, stroll through the gardens in the Moorish castle and head for the tower.

Later that night, we were in for an evening of entertainment that I will probably never forget. I had heard of Fado music but, being slightly cynical, I thought it would be something I might not really enjoy. Boy was I wrong.

The music, although sad and sometimes emotional, goes through the full spectrum of emotions. In fact, I was informed by my host, Elia, that “Fado is a cry from the soul”. Take from that what you will; all I know is I really enjoyed it.

Heading inland, we visited Silves. Maybe it was because it was our guide Thelma’s home town and her enthusiasm for the place rubbed off on me, but I think this town is a gem and any visitor to the Algarve should tear themselves away from the beaches and golf courses to visit Silves. Famous for cork and its big red sandstone castle and cathedral, the town was once as important to the Portuguese as the capital, Lisbon, and is still important today as a tourist destination and university town.

If you do decide to venture to Silves, then carry on to the spa resort of Monchique, where you can sample the healing waters and even stay for some serious pampering at the spa resort. I could have probably done with more of the waters’ healing properties after I sampled some of the local firewater, which does wonders if you have a sore throat.

Not to be outdone in the food stakes, on our last evening, we were treated to a gourmet dinner at Cave de Vinhos, which is part of the Vila Vita Parc Resort. We enjoyed a tour of the wine cellar with wine tasting and an amazing dinner accompanied by wines to complement every course.

To say we were spoiled for the evening is an understatement. The feast included a selection of Iberian tapas; monkfish wrapped in pancetta; veal served with bell peppers and La Ratte potatoes, and ginger parfait with almond slices and a cherry shot – all washed down with Ferreira LBV 1995 port.

Looking at the hotel visitors’ book, we read that the pop star, Anastacia, had stayed at the Vila Vita the week before our arrival. Hardly surprisingly, she was singing its praises. If I wasn’t tone deaf then I’d do the same for the Algarve, too.

TRAVEL FACTS

Drive with Algarve Car Hire

Lewis stayed at the Hotel Vila Vita Parc Resort. For more information, visit www.vilavitaparc.com

Flights to the Algarve are available from Edinburgh, Glasgow and Glasgow Prestwick.

For more information about the Algarve, visit www.visitalgarve.pt